Golf and First Nations

Golf and First Nations History combine at St.Eugene Mission Resort 

By Jack McNeel 

When guests arrive at the old stone entrance to St. Eugene Mission Resort near Cranbrook, B.C., they’re about to experience not only a top new golf course but a step into western Canadian history. 

What began as a Catholic mission school for Native children is now a luxurious international destination hotel overlooking an 18-hole golf course designed by Les Furber which opened in 2000. What hasn’t changed are its ownership by the Ktunaxa Nation and its spectacular setting. Fisher Peak, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, is on the eastern horizon. The Purcell Mountains form the backdrop to the west and the St. Mary River runs alongside. Whitetail deer are often seen. Bald eagles and osprey frequent the river. 

What makes it truly unique is its long association with the Ktunaxa Nation which has occupied this land for over 10,000 years. The Nation includes seven bands, five in British Columbia. The Oblate Order of Catholics began a mission here in 1873. In 1910 the Canadian government funded construction of the first boarding school for First Nations youngsters in the Canadian west. It is this building with its gray river rock exterior and red roof that became the bare bones for the hotel construction. Until the school closed in 1970 some 5000 youngsters occupied its halls and dorm rooms – a sad chapter in the history of Native peoples who saw their children removed from their homes and forced to abandon their customs and families. 

After intensive interior reconstruction, the old boarding school, which stands three stories high with almost a regal appearance, reopened in 2003. It retains a century-old style but is 21^st century in its offerings: a full fitness center with pools, an adjoining casino, four dining options and, most importantly, the golf course. The Ktunaxa Nation maintains an interpretive centre within the resort and art work throughout relates the history. The complex is owned by a partnership of three First Nations groups and members make up about a fourth of the staff. 

There are other reminders of the golf resort’s origins. The clubhouse is located in the barn which housed livestock during the boarding school years. The red barn paint, white trim and cedar shakes remain while the interior has been converted to a fully stocked modern clubhouse. The 1910 architecture and history of the buildings stand in unique contrast to the modern 18 hole golf course. 

A year after the course opened it was acknowledged by Golf Digest as one of the Top Three Best New Canadian Courses. Luke Haberman, who plays the course frequently, calls it “a fantastic layout. It’s very inviting to both skilled golfers and beginners alike.” 

The longest tees play at just over 7,000 yards while the shortest are 5,388 yards. That works well for Haberman who says he’s “played for ages,” and his wife who is newer to golf. “If I play the tips and she plays the very fronts we’re in the same spots off the tee so we get to enjoy playing together.” 

His enthusiasm is contagious as he talks about the aesthetics and wildlife. “The backdrop is pretty incredible. Coming in on #18 with Fisher Peak in the background is pretty amazing. I’ve seen a few times when coming down #18 a bald eagle will swoop down next to you and steal a fish.” 

Haberman uses the mountain as an aiming spot on #14. “It’s a narrow tee shot. If I can hit the mountain I will hit the fairway.” 

Brian Adams is another local who says his favorite hole is #12 because of the view from the green. “Turn around and look back down the fairway to a row of trees and then in the distance you see the Rocky Mountains. For a good part of the year the mountains have snow on them. It’s a spectacular view!” 

He also agrees about #18. “The whole Mission building is right in front of you and the red roof and Rocky Mountains behind are just spectacular.” Brian carries a camera to record the views and wildlife and recalls a favorite photo of two young spotted whitetail fawns. 

Brian says locals tend to take the scenery for granted, “But there are a lot of people from Alberta or back east who play golf here. For them it’s really spectacular, especially in the spring when the river’s running fast and there’s snow on the mountain. They’re always overcome by the scenery, river, and the wildlife.”